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Several signs point to aging wiring: breakers tripping for no clear reason, outlets or switches that feel warm or look discolored, a faint burning smell, or wiring that's the old Soviet-era aluminum type without grounding. If the building is over 25–30 years old and the electrical system has never been fully replaced, the insulation is very likely worn out. Any of these signs is a good reason to have an electrician inspect the wiring before it leads to a short circuit.

Properly installed copper cable with PVC insulation typically lasts around 25–30 years under normal load, with some manufacturers rating it even longer. Aluminum wiring, common in Soviet-era buildings, has a shorter service life, and in most older apartments that lifespan has already run out. Actual lifespan depends heavily on installation quality, the load on each circuit, and conditions like humidity and temperature swings. Even copper wiring older than 30 years is worth having checked by a professional.

Yes, wiring can be run without chasing the walls — using cable trunking, decorative surface channels, or corrugated conduit hidden above a suspended or stretch ceiling. This is a practical option when renovation is already finished, in wooden houses where chasing isn't recommended, or for temporary and additional circuits. The downside is that surface wiring is visible and needs channels matched to the interior. Chasing hides the cable and looks cleaner, but it's dusty, labor-intensive work best done before final finishing.

Sparking when you plug something in is usually caused by a loosened contact inside the socket — the internal clips wear out with frequent use or their contact surfaces get burnt. An overloaded socket powering a high-wattage appliance, or an old plug with loose pins, can cause the same effect. A tiny spark on insertion is fairly normal, but crackling sounds, a burning smell, or discoloration around the socket point to dangerous wear. In that case switch the outlet off and have it replaced — patching the internal contacts rarely fixes the problem for long.

A modern kitchen needs a dedicated outlet for each major appliance — fridge, dishwasher, washing machine, oven, electric cooktop — plus several general-purpose outlets above the counter for a kettle, microwave, blender and other small appliances. That usually adds up to 8-12 outlets on an average kitchen, not the 2-3 that older apartments were built with. Countertop outlets are typically placed 15-20 cm above the work surface, while outlets for built-in appliances go behind the cabinet at the height of the connected unit. It's worth planning the layout before the final finishing is done, so you don't have to cut into a finished wall later.

Yes, but only under strict safety conditions: the outlet must be moisture-protected (IP44 rating or higher), wired through an RCD-protected circuit, and positioned at a safe distance from the bath, shower and sink as required by code — typically at least 60 cm from any water source, outside the direct splash zone. A 10-30 mA RCD cuts power the instant it detects even a small current leak, which matters a lot in a wet room. Installing an ordinary, non-waterproof outlet without RCD protection in a bathroom is not safe and shouldn't be done.